Engine Removal
Engine Out
Taking the engine out the 944 S2 is a tricky job, I took mine out from the top in two stages, the inlet and exhaust manifolds and cylinder head first, then the bottom end out after that. There is a great write up on how remove the engine from the top by Retro Steve
This is definitely a two man job as you need another set of hands to help with the manoeuvring of the engine to get the clearance you need to get the head off and the bottom end out. I drafted in Jacob Lee for the cylinder head and Martin Cain for the bottom end, whom I am eternally grateful for for their help 👍🏾
Splitting the engine confirmed that bore scoring was a problem and that the head gasket had needed changing as some parts had rotted away.
. There are a number of challegning areas when undertaking this job which are detailed below:
Head stub removal
These did not want to come out, the guys on the forums simply say “use the double nut method” but the bolts did not budge a millimetre. I had to use my heat induction tool to heat them up until the stud lock burnt away, then use my massive stilson to crack the studs, and then use the double nut method to remove them completely. The studs are "one use" items so they have to be replaced. I plan to use some ARP head studs which you can find for under £200 if you shop around.
Exhaust manifold removal
While the double nut technique works for these bolts the clearance needed to remove the two manifolds pieces is a tricky. I found removing all the studs from the middle section for exhausts ports two and three and then tackling the section for ports one and four was the only way I could get it out.
Injector removal
These were well and truly stuck in, all broke and I have to replace them all. Good luck, I wish you all the best trying to get them out in one piece.
Engine lift clearance
My Clarke CFC100 1 Tonne Folding Workshop Crane engine lift would not fit under the car! So I had to stick some scaffolding boards under the front wheels to get the clearance required. Once the engine is out the front end of the car lifts up a lot, so its worth noting that when it goes back in lift will get stuck if you don't use some boards under the tires again.
Torque tube clearance
From the top, it looks like the bottom end will come out with the bell housing attached. But you don't have the clearance to torque tube shaft clear. Splitting the clutch is the best option. The timing mark fin in the bell hosuing gets in the way when your trying to get the bottom end out. Once you have figured this out pulling then bottom end is much easier. This fin was also a problem when fitting the bell housing, I am going to grind the bugger back 10mm as its a right pain in da ass and you can barely see it to use it as a timing mark the one of the bottom of the bell housing to much more useful and the one I use for the timing belt alignment.
Once the engine was freed from the clutch and the timing mark fin had been manoeuvred out the way the engine lifted out easy.
